We set off from the chai stall, in India there is always time for chai, some time after about a little before quarter to twelve perhaps? (when we tried to remember afterwards, no one could be sure) and started the long steady climb up the track through the pines. It led after an hour or so of steepness to the next chai stall and honey pancakes in the sun. Renate and Nan talked matter of factly about earthquakes. I listened, and quietly planned an escape route from the guesthouse should the need arise...
The next leg took us through ancient forests of trees and shrubs whose names, apart from rhododendron, I would never know, and talk of possible encounters with leopards or bears. I listened and wondered what the hell I'd do, other than look a bear hard in the eyes and talk firmly at it in a deep growly voice. I rehearsed my lines to myself.
Well, we made it to the village, (and more tea) and then it was a matter of following the water pipes part of the way down the mountain to a Buddhist prayer flag site, negotiate a pair of threatening monkeys who wanted to take us on, by tagging on to a larger party of homo sapiens. And eventually back to the safety(?) of my guesthouse before nightfall. The Cotswold Way was never like this...
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