Friday 21 November 2014

The Best Exotic Marigold

Turning the clock back 20 hours or so; I'd arrived on the night train, tired and emotional, from Delhi and was met at the station by another shark. Said his name was Sandy, though I suspect more probably Sanjay. Shady Sanjay Sandy then proceeded to tell me that I was not going to the hotel I'd booked (The Dolphin International) but to a much better one; brand new. I was to be its second guest he said proudly. I shrugged and went with the flow. (Or as a thirty something traveller from Oz I'd met in McCleod Ganj put it: "you just have to surrender yourself.")
It was only after I'd checked in that I began to notice the details. The sticky tape left on the bathroom sink was just one of the many signs that this place was not actually ready for any guests at all. Workmen were creating dust on the landings, doors left open revealed mattresses still wrapped in polythene. The whiff of fresh emulsion. I went down to reception and asked about wifi...   Ahem......(But for the most part Indians don't do ahem. In fact, they seem unabashed about everything,) and there's usually a face saving explanation, not necessarily a truthful one. They phoned a wifi company ...tomorrow. Wifi tomorrow.

I spent the night in my room with one bottom sheet and one flimsy rough blanket for cover - no use calling reception for more, there was no one on duty.
Up before dawn to catch the taxi to catch the boat to catch the sun rise and get back in time for an early breakfast...
Where's the dining room, please?
Breakfast will be in your room, Sir.
There is no table in my room,
There is no dining room. Not built yet.
The last straw. Go with the flow? Surrender myself?
I thought of Dennis Gould. RESIST AND DISOBEY!!!
By 9 I was checked in at The Dolphin.

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